Jean Georges

Jean Georges

Three Michelin stars,
yet an affordable lunch...
A can't-miss value!

I am so enthusiastic about this meal, I'm giving its own blog post, though it was originally with the other NYC blog post...

In case you don't know, the Michelin star ratings are generally regarded as the most reputable restaurant ranking system in the world. Three stars is their highest honor and highly coveted. Chefs have killed themselves over losing a star. While there has been controversy regarding its clearly francophilic tendencies, among other things, it still matters to the majority of the culinary world.

Anyway, right off the bat, it should be noted that I generally can't afford to eat in three star restaurants. I am a student, after all. But then I found out about Jean Georges, one of 7 three star restaurants in NYC, had a fabulous lunch special...

Yup... two courses for $38... Now, I realize that isn't exactly cheap. However, in the grand scheme of things, being offered two courses at one of the most respected restaurants in NYC... that's a bargain.

The restaurant, by the way, is hard to find despite having a very sexy address: 1 Central Park West... Its sign is very demure, being dominated by the much more bombacious signs for the Trump International Hotel, its co-tenant. The dining room is understated but beautiful, dominated by shades of white. The service was perfect, being accommodating without being stuffy. Dress code is much lighter, simply forbidding sports shoes and jeans.

I've talked a lot, so onto the stuff we ate:

Amuse Bouche:

Sweet potato soup with chili infused apples

Spring roll with Comte and truffles

Chili-cured salmon with creme fraiche

The spring roll was the best, for obvious reasons... how could you go wrong with cheese and truffles wrapped in a crispy shell?!?!?!

The salmon was also very delicious... it had a lot more flavor without somehow being as salty as most cured meats.

Sweet potato soup was the weakest of the group, mainly because it didn't taste much different from every other sweet potato soup I've had.

Egg Caviar

Honestly, I had to think a bit about ordering this, as it required a $30 supplement. But I knew this was one of Jean George's signature dishes, and I figured, can you truly say you had a three star meal without caviar? Douchey, I know... don't judge me! This was a truly luxurious dish. In the hollowed egg shell were the fluffiest, creamiest scrambled eggs I've ever tasted. It was honestly more like a custard. On top was a topping of creme fraiche with a heaping amount of osestra caviar. Honestly, I'm not sure I appreciate caviar enough to truly enjoy this dish... But I do recognize that they were certainly being very generous with the delicacy. Ultimately, I was a bigger fan of the scrambled eggs. Regardless, it was the experience I expected and wanted going to Jean Georges.

Foie Gras Brule, Pineapple-Meyer Lemon Jam and Toasted Brioche

Caviar AND foie gras for appetizers? Yes sir, we were living large. Unlike caviar, which is essentially just brine spherification to me, foie gras holds a special place in my culinary heart. I realize there are ethical issues, but I will focus for these purposes simply on the fact that foie is a unique ingredient with a taste that cannot be emulated. Jane felt the foie was a bit too rich and salty without the toast, but with the brioche and jam, it was heavenly.

Sauteed Veal Scallopine, Flying Pig Ham, Mushrooms and Lavender

Yes, after foie, we had veal. This is a PETA nightmare. And a culinary fantasy. I ordered this mainly because I knew this dish, essentially a weinerschnizel, is the pride of Alsace, chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten's home region. The crispy texture was incredible, and I loved the mix of mushrooms with the ham and veal. However, this was a bit salty for me.

Snapper Crusted with Nuts and Seeds, Sweet and Sour Jus

Jane ordered this on the waitress's suggestion, and wow did she choose the right dish. It was an interesting fusion of French and Asian techniques. Jean Georges is actually quite the Asianophile. He worked in Singapore and Hong Kong during his training, he opened a popular restaurant called Spice Market in NYC that showcases Asian street food, and he's married to a half-Korean. So he's actually well positioned to execute a perfect fusion of Asian and French cultures in a way that isn't hackneyed. The snapper was perfectly cooked: crispy skin and moist flesh without any fishiness. But what was most delicious was the broth. It combined Asian sweet and sour flavors with butter, making a rich soup that warmed the soul. The little cherry tomatoes added extra bursts of tartness. Best dish of the day, and probably of the past couple years. And I don't even like fish that much.

Dessert: Spices

We were presented with three dessert options: Chocolate, caramel and spices. We went with spices, and I'm glad we did. The desserts, centered around the theme, were marvelous. The favorite was the yuzu custard with candied shiso leaf and sesame seeds. The macaroon with buttermilk ice cream was also spectacular.

Mignardises

Included as a final treat were little extra desserts. Included were 4 different types of chocolate, macaroons and homemade marshmallows!!!

Ultimately, this was a fantastic meal, yet not one that seemed like a huge paradigm shift from the other amazing meals I've had. I'd rank it probably in my top 25 lifetime meals, but not in the top 5. The fact that it was a relatively light three course meal served during the more casual lunch hours may have given this impression. Dinner at Jean Georges is usually more than 9 courses and far more formal, requiring a suit and tie. But with the lack of formality came a bit of a lack of occasion. Needless to say, the food and service was top notch. But this meal made me realize that perhaps truly appreciating the pomp and circumstance of high class dining also requires the audience to participate, with wallet, costume and all.

With that said, this is ultimately an amazing bargain and definitely worth doing. And I really can't say enough about how amazing the snapper was.

-JK